Ochsentaler Gletscher route and S-ridge

Approach

This is the best route to climb the Silvrettahorn from the Austrian side in summer. Start this route at the Wiesbadener Hütte (See main page for details)

It includes an interesting glacier tour to the pass south of the summit (Egghornlücke at 3047m 3 hours). It takes another 1-2 hrs to get to the summit over the S-ridge. The view is spectacular from the summit.

Route Description

First follow the path S of the Wiesbadener Hütte in the direction of Piz Buin and the Vermunt glacier. In front of the Vermunt glacier turn to the right (W) and cross the glacier stream. In 1999 there was a wooden bridge. Then follow the path that goes up the hill with the name “Grünne Kuppe” and pass to the other side at the foot of the Ochsentaler glacier. Get on the Ochsentaler glacier, and pass (direction W) through several crevasse zones to the foot of the steep section of the glacier below the rocks at the E-facing slope of the Silvrettahorn. Gain the glacier below the steep rock-face (S-direction). Then, at the glacier plateau (about 2900m) make a sharp turn to the right (W) and walk up the Egghornlücke. At the pass there is a good flat place to make a material depot, if required. At this stage the rock scramble over the S-ridge starts. There is a faint track and some scrambling over (loose!) rock and scree (grade I-II). Near the summit the S-ridge becomes very narrow with steep rock faces into Switzerland and Austria. Return by the same route.

Essential Gear

This tour requires full glacier travel equipment and skills (ice axe, crampons, harness, rope, and crevasse rescue stuff)

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

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