President/V.President

On July 19th, Michael Thompson, myself, two female companions and one dog took off from Takakkaw Falls trail head and hiked in the necessary 10k+ to the little Yoho campground passing by numerous falls. As soon as we had our tents pitched, it rained on and off for the next 3 days. The next morning, we chose to do the scramble of Mt Kerr awaiting better weather. On July 21st, we started out at 5:AM and summitted the President in under 3 hours. Michael took a break at the col while I summitted Vice President and we were back at camp for espresso before 10:30. When we arrived at camp initially, I had questioned a well equipped group stationed at the luxurious 5-star Alpine Club Hut, outfitted with plastic boots, ropes and ice axes to spare, about the route. They had taken 11 hours on the 19th. Because I had on hiking boots and asked what I presumed they thought were stupid questions, they were hesitant with any beta on the mountain or route. Interesting enough, when it came time to pick a route, I chose the opposite side of the glacier to proceed up. We took the left hand side picking an ascent route through several crevasses and then finished to the col over the 'schrund on the right side. This route was fast and esthetically pleasing, as well as kept us out of harms way regarding any rock or ice fall. I noted one soft bridge on our descent of the same route. The 'schrund is huge, relative to this glacier. If you have to climb in and out if it, definitely allow for more time. Once we got to the col, we un roped and proceeded up to the President on snow, rock and some ice. We signed the summit register and then I scattered up Vice President and signed it's register as well. We had wintry conditions at the col and the peaks, with no views. Our descent was typically quick. I would do this mountain solo, but of course, l was grateful for a partner on glacier travel. Our total ascent from camp was 3000'+/-. Double click on the smaller photo to the right to get a solid view of the glacier, we picked our way through the left and met the col on the right. There are two approaches, either cross the bridge by the wardens cabin and proceed on the trail as it follows the drainage and proceed up to the left hand moraine's edge dumping you on the glacier lower left, or gain the left hand moraine earlier by veering left off the trail as soon as you pass the sign marking the Kiwetinok Pass at 4k. Start glacier left, ascend and then traverse glacier right as you aim for the 'schrund towards the col. We hiked out via the Iceline Trail (superb views) and were rewarded with great weather the rest of the day.

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