Raptor, 5.10c, 6 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Raptor is the only route that extends high up on this east section of the Brass wall above the typical lower varnished climbing areas you find on this popular south facing destination over Pine Creek. For good reason:  the rock deteriorates rapidly the further up the wall you climb and is heavily featured which does not make for setting up a decent rap back to the ground. That being said, if you have climbed most of the multipitch routes at Red Rock at this grade, it is still an objective worth doing with a relatively easy approach.

For whatever reason most all of the pitch lengths on Raptor in the local guide as well as on MP.com are exaggerated by quite a bit, over 40’ on three of them.  The route is also given a PG13 rating on MP.com which I didn't experience.  It seemed well protected and supplemented with bolts at the cruxes. The first pitch is simply using any one of several existing routes to reach the top of the obvious 60’ leaning block tower against the wall.  The 3rd pitch is the crux of the route and sustained at the grade.   It is a trad pitch that relies on several bolts as the corner, crack, seam you are following blanks out in the middle of the pitch.  The crux of the route is the exit from this crack/seam, but if you utilize the holds up and right, it is manageable at the grade.  The fourth pitch starts up a fun corner but becomes typical 5^th class ground on large featured sandstone in short order.  Same can be said for the fifth pitch.  The rap descent is down a treed gully and although not fun, it seemed to function without glitch.

Hike up to the right side of Brass Wall utilizing either approach trail (east or west).  There are many single pitch routes that congregate at the right end of Brass Wall.  Five of them, from 5.4-5.9, will get you to the summit of the leaning block where Raptor begins.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 60’-5.6/ Climb Heavy Spider Karma, a heavily varnished jug fest, to the ledge on top of the obvious block which forms a shallow chimney between it and the wall.  Walk west and belay below and just to the right of a seam in the well featured varnish above.  Gear belay.

2^nd Pitch- 90’-5.8/ 20’ shorter than the local guide/MP.com has it at as of 2022. Trend up and left from the belay to place gear in the vertical seam, then easily traverse under the arc above out right.  Then straight up to the base of an obvious left facing corner.  Gear belay.

3^rd Pitch- 120’-5.10c/ 40’ shorter than the local guide/MP.com as of 2022. Climb up the steep black corner with good gear.  At the top, you mantle up to the far less quality rock with just a seam left of the corner and no pro.  Clip the first of two pro bolts.  Face climb at the grade placing a wire or two (micro gear) enroute to clipping another bolt on the right. The crux of the route is a slight overhang pull as the seam turns back to a varnished crack. This direct pull can be climbed at a slightly higher grade (5.11a) or use the hand holds up and right at the grade.  Finish on much easier ground to below an obvious right facing corner.  Gear belay.

4^th Pitch- 110’-5.8/ 40’ shorter than the local guide/MP.com as of 2022. Climb up the fun corner, turn out to the left at the top and meander up looking to traverse left to a crack.  Follow it to a comfortable belay ledge below an obvious varnished left facing corner.  Gear belay.

5^th Pitch- 140’-5.9+/ 40’ shorter than the local guide/MP.com as of 2022.  Never really felt the “+” on this pitch.  Seemed more 5.8 than 5.9.  Climb up the fun but short corner and continue up easier ground above.  Trend up and left into the bowl.  Pull a varnished roof in the bowl on big jugs.  Continue up low angled face to a comfortable belay ledge well below a right facing corner.  Gear Belay. 

6^th Pitch- 100’-5^th Class/ Ignore the obvious corner above.  Scramble up and left behind a short pillar and traverse straight west, stepping down if anything, to locate a fixed bolt rap. 

Climbing Sequence

Descent

All raps as well as the two pro bolts are modern as of 2022.  Make a double rope rap down a huge treed filled gully landing at a ledge with a single bolt plus tree rap.  Make another tree filled double rope rap (or 70m single) down to a broad ledge.  Make a double 70m rope rap trending east (skiers left) down the varnished wall.  Double 60m’s can be used as well with some down climbing.  Make a single rope rap to the ground just west of the large block that forms the first pitch. 

Essential Gear

Double 60m ropes (or 70’s depending on your skill level, see descent). Single from #0 to #2.  Double to #.75 plus wires and/or off sets. Shoulder length slings. Route faces south.