Standard Route from West

Overview

This is the route that probably every party has taken. It is resonably straightforward with the exception of the lower section and is an excellent introduction to the mountains of Pakistan.

Getting There

From Tarashing a shepherd trail leads west up the Rupal valley. It's a two day trek to base camp overnighting at either of Nanga Parbat's base camps. West of the Bazhin glacier and before the Toshain glacier a valley joins the Rupal valley from the south. Turn south in to this valley then immediately start climbing its left side. The steep 1000m+ ascent through grazing slopes eventually leads to the arid surroundings of Rupal peak's base camp at approximately 5000m. The summit is not visible until ten minutes walk of base camp.

Route Description

From the base camp the main climb starts a short traverse across a non-technical glacier. The route to the summit approaches from the west and for the large part is non-technical, straight forward and around 30 degrees inclinatation. We climbed in July and there were no visible crevasses. A couple of sections may test notices, however I'd rate it around an Alpine grade PD+. The lower section of the climb forms an in The route of the lower section of the climb forms an backward 'C'. The route initially follows a short icefall section left to right, as viewed from the base camp with a couple of short steep steps. The route then swings back right to left and broadens to follow a winding, gentle snow field for most of the way to the summit. During the ascent there are stunning views of Nanga Parbat to the North. At approximately half way a six meter 70 degree snow wall needs to be negociated however this shouldn't prove too problematic with an experienced leader. Above the wall there is particular exposure to the left for approximately 20m and inexpeienced climbers may wish to fix rope. From a saddle a short distance below the summit there are great views of the Indian Himalaya. A 4 meter exposed rock spire marks the true summit of Rupal Peak however few people attempt to climb this. Start climbing early to avoid snow melt during the afternoon and bank on about 6-8 hours return trip depending on fitness.

Essential Gear

Only basic mountaineering equipment is needed for the climb as it is non-technical for the large part.

Walking axe
Dry rope
Crampons
Mountain boots
Harness

Equipment can sporadically be found in the outdoor shops in Gilgit however quality is usually poor and choice is limited. Bring all equipment from home.

Images

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