Western route from Stazzema

Western route from Stazzema

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 43.99595°N / 10.33748°E
Additional Information Route Type: Hiking
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: Hike
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

First steps on the south ridge of Monte NonaMonte Nona summit

While the easiest and shortest approach to Monte Nona starts at Rifugio Matanna in the south-east of the mountain and is an affair of only half an hour, the route from Stazzema is at least five times as long and also much more difficult. It follows a hiking trail underneath the west face of the mountain, which also is the best and shortest access route to the ferrata on Monte Procinto.

Quite often the climb to Monte Nona is followed by a loop trail: The route described here for the first leg, the eastern traverse from Rifugio Matanna as the second one and the north face traverse as the third. Together, the loop takes abbout 5 hours to complete.

Getting There

See the main page of Monte Nona for the itinerary to Stazzema.

Route Description

Torri del PratoCampanile del Prato

  • General:
      - Start altitude: 443m
      - Summit altitude: 1279m
      - Prevailing exposure: West
      - Type: Hike
      - Protection: none
  • Effort: 800m
  • Power: 2 - Good elevation gain
  • Psyche: 2 - Several exposed sections
  • Difficulty: 1 - Easy
  • Orientation: 1 - Easy

    From Stazzema follow the road to Serravezza. Above the hamlet, there is an intersection. A signpost (trails no 5 and 6) leads in the direction of Monte Forato. At the next intersections trails 5 and 6 separate. While trail no 6 traverses underneath the north face of Monte Nona towards Monte Forato. The path leads to the west face of Campanile del Prato, the taller one of the Torri del Prato. Here a sign points to Rifugio Forte dei Marmi to the right of the tower.
    Campanile del Prato
    Monte Procinto
    Hiking underneath Procinto
    Monte Procinto

    The path traverses underneath Campanile del Prato towards Monte Procinto always staying on the south sides of the towers. After about 75 minutes from the trailhead you reach the rifugio as well as Alpe della Grotta, a small mountain pasture. After the visit turn back and head steeply upwards towards the saddle between Monte Procinto and Monte Nona. The steep and exposed passagehas been protected with steel cables. In case you plan to climb the ferrata to Monte Procinto, head into the saddle, where the ferrata starts in the south-eastern corner of Monte Procinto. Ladders, cables and 265 artificial steps take you to the top of the tower.
    Monte Procinto
    Rock window
    West face traverse

    For Monte Nona turn southward again before you reach the saddle. The path now traverses the Monte Nona west face, at first without to much elevation gain, but later in a steep and exposed passage above the Alpe della Grotta. At the end of the steep section you will find a rock window, through which the western winds blow at great speed. Do not cross over to the other side. Rather stayin the west of the mountain where exposed steps take you to the saddle Callare di Matanna.
    Monte NonaOn Monte Nona's south ridge

    In the saddle turn left sharply and head for the south ridge of Monte Nona. The ascent trail always stays a bit to the east of the ridge, where exposure is much lower. Only in the topmost part it follows the flat ridge towards the cross on the summit.

    Essential Gear

    Hiking gear is sufficient. Ferrata Gear for Monte Procinto.

  • Parents 

    Parents

    Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.