Westeron Wynde, 5.9, 3 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Westeron Wynde offers another decent 5.9 route to combine with Bush Shark Spire (5.9) for a full day of moderate climbing in Echo Canyon.  The best approach to combining these two routes would be to climb Bush Shark Spire’s two pitches, rap and then climb Westeron Wynde to the top of Echo Canyon and quickly hook into the La Luz trail on top or add more climbing by rapping in on Yucca Flower Tower not far to the south.

The first two pitches of Westeron are nothing to write home about.  The first pitch climbs up more of a gully than a corner on the right side of the same wall that contains Ghost Rider.  The crux (5.9) of the first pitch is when the gully steepens into a corner below a roof requiring a short off width section that can be wet depending on conditions (seepage).  But in short order you do traverse left out of this manky corner on slab to intermittent cracks that lead up to below a small roof, where you can belay at a stance on small gear.  The 2^nd pitch pulls through the roof, 5.8, and immediately presents three options:  stem up the tips left facing corner (5.11b), climb run out 5.10 slab/face to the tree on the arete to the left, or traverse left at the base of the arete and climb a flake/crack that trends up and left to a decent belay ledge above the lone tree (2021) and belay on small gear.  The 3^rd pitch is what makes the effort on this climb worth it.  From the ledge traverse right and climb the left side corner, 5.9, or the ride side corner, 5.10a.  Both corners hook up at a roof that you pull up and to the right.  Then pull the next roof to the left and follow that corner to the top of the formation.

Park at the main parking area at the top of the La Luz trail.  Take the La Luz down switchbacks to the col where you can turn left for the tram or right down the mountain on the main La Luz.  Instead, find a climber’s trail that drops down straight ahead and to the left.  Hike down this trail over deadfall and pass Techweeny Buttress (Crackula, 5.8) on your left.  Continue down the climber’s trail passing the next wall, that does have a bolt (unpublished) on it, and look for the start of Big T (5.10d) on the next wall on your left.  You can easily spot the first bolt of Bit T mixed with a shallow corner.  Continue on to the middle of the west face of Bush Shark Tower.  There is a bolt line to the left, Feeding Frenzy (5.10c) and a beautiful right facing corner directly above, the first pitch of Bush Shark Spire.  Continue south to the right side of the next wall and hike up a gully and rope up where you prefer below the manky gully/corner system that breaks up and left below a roof.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 190’-5.9/ If you start at the bottom of the gully, this is a full 200’ pitch.  The crux (5.9) of the first pitch is when the gully steepens into a corner below a roof requiring a short off width section that can be wet depending on conditions (seepage).  But in short order you traverse left out of this manky corner on slab to intermittent cracks that lead up to below a small roof, where you can belay at a stance on small gear.  There is a two-bolt face variation (5.10) to the left that avoids the gully and corner completely.

2^nd Pitch- 100’-5.8/ The 2nd pitch pulls through the roof, 5.8, and immediately presents three options:  stem up the tips left facing corner (5.11b), climb run out 5.10 slab/face to the tree on the arete to the left, or traverse left at the base of the arete and climb a flake crack that trends up and left to a decent belay ledge above the lone tree (2021) and belay on small gear. 

3rd Pitch- 165’-5.9/ This is by far the most sustained and cleanest pitch of the route.  From the ledge traverse right and climb the left side corner, 5.9, or the ride side corner, 5.10a.  Both corners hook up at a roof that you pull up and to the right.  Then pull the next roof to the left and follow that corner to the top of the formation.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Walk off to the east to hook into the La Luz trail, turn left and hike back to the Sandia Crest parking lot.

Essential Gear

60m rope.  Single rack from micro to #3.  Doubles to #1.   A dozen of shoulder length slings.  Route receives shade all morning and at this elevation is normally cool enough to climb all summer regardless of sun.