Murray Dome, 5.7-5.11

Overview/Approach

Murray Dome is yet another of many Cochise destinations that sees few climbers, despite having a combination of grades and diverse route selection, sort of like Maybe Pinnacle provides, but less.  Starting at the far left, there is an unpublished (Nose Direct) 5.7 mixed single pitch up the “nose” which is a blunt arete at the south end of the dome.  This is a good lead for climbers breaking in at that grade featuring four bolts and a short hand crack leading to a fixed anchor.  The Nose Goes, 5.8R, 3 Pitches, is one of the more interesting multi pitch 5.8’s on the east side.  It features a very cool dike traverse on its 2^nd pitch.  The R is all at 5.5 climbing or less.  Three routes start from this same location including the Dave Baker route, 5.8R, 2 Pitches and a single pitch by the name of Make the Stronghold Great Again, 5.8R.  Atop the 1^st pitch of the Dave Baker route, there is an option for an unpublished single pitch route known as the Great One, 5.8.  Again, like the Nose Goes, this pitch traverses left on a dike, but is a more challenging and airier of a traverse vs the Nose Goes dike traverse lower down.  It is well bolted on beautiful rock.  On the short east face up hill from these routes are two stellar sport routes, Mangas Coloradas, 5.11- and the unpublished Trail of Tears, 5.9 which are two of the better sport routes on the east side at their respective grades. 

Mp.com discusses approaching Murray Dome from below Stronghold and Worm Domes by scrambling up their shared gully to the top and then up and right out of the wash by a slight cairned climber’s trail between Worm and Murray. The modern guide as of 2024 suggests approaching in front of Tesfnaeb Dome.  I have done both and they are essentially equal in distance and effort.  My preference is ascending below Tesfnaeb and up to the col at its west end by a slightly cairned climber’s trail. Descend into the wash between Stronghold and Tesfnaeb at the west end of Worm Dome.  Then ascend up the wash for a short distance looking for a slight cairned climber’s trail on the right side that leads to the south and east faces of Murray.  On descent, return to the west end of Worm Dome and descend the gully below Worm and Stronghold Domes and return south to the main trail as you would if returning from the Stronghold Dome, completing a loop around Tesfnaeb Dome.

Route Descriptions

Nose Direct- 80’-5.7*/ This route is the direct blunt arete below a massive roof on the left end of Murray Dome.  It is a worthy and relatively new line.  It contains four bolts with an easy hand crack on the left side of the arete that takes good gear in between bolts.  Fixed rap anchor is located directly below the roof.  Four draws and a few medium pieces of gear.  Dow

The Nose Goes, 5.8R, 3 Pitches****/ This is one of the better entry level multi pitch climbs on the East Side with a great selection of similarly graded routes nearby. The dike traverse is special and fun. Scott added another dike traverse further up that is worth doing as well, at a similar grade.  Dow

The Great One- 80’-5.8***/ This is not a published route as of 2024 and is located high up on the wall.  This is a great second pitch option to the Dave Baker Route or Making the Stronghold Great Again.  From atop the first pitch of the Dave Baker route, move up and left past a bolted traverse (some 5.10 variation) to the 2^nd one.   Following two bolts, make the committing traverse to the left wall via airy and physical climbing at the grade.  Continue pulling on huge holds through vertical ground following the bolts up and left to the fixed anchor at the start of the third pitch of the Nose Goes.  You can rap back down to the Dave Baker Route or continue to the top of the Nose Goes.  Well bolted but you can sling features and place a few pieces in pockets if you desire.  Dow

Dave Baker Route, 5.7+R, 2 Pitches/ Ok route. Not near as good as the Nose Goes for the same grade. The 2nd pitch offers a fun short steep face near its end. Dow

Making the Stronghold Great Again-150’-5.8R/ Climb the right side of the right face that forms the massive corner where The Nose Goes and the Dave Baker route start.  Five clips with assorted opportunities for slinging features and/or place cams.  You can finish up and left on the Dave Baker fixed rap and make two single rope raps to the ground or finish on the right side of the buttress at the top of Mangas Coloradas and make one single 60m rope rap to the ground.  Five draws and a few long slings and/or medium pieces of gear.  Sunny route most of the day during winter. Dow

Mangas Coloradas- 5.11-/

Trail of Tears- 90’-5.9***/ This is an unpublished route as of 2024.  The name may or may not stay the same but, outside of Mangas Coloradas, this is the best route on Murray Dome despite being a pure sport route.  Pass Mangas, a fully bolted obvious flake/dike route located on the true short east face of Murray heading uphill.  You come across another unpublished bolted line.  The third bolted line is Trail of Tears and it is well bolted with approximately 11 clips.  This route features thoughtful edge climbing for the grade on stellar stone.  Single 60m rope and 11 draws.  Route will get shade in the early afternoon during the winter.  Dow

Butzie- 5.8/