Dave Baker Route, 5.8R, 2 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Murray Dome is yet another of many Cochise destinations that sees few climbers, despite having a combination of grades and diverse route selection, sort of like Maybe Pinnacle provides, but less.  Starting at the far left, there is an unpublished 5.7 mixed single pitch up the “nose” which is a blunt arete at the south end of the Dome.  This is a good lead for climbers breaking in at that grade featuring four bolts and a short hand crack leading to a fixed anchor.  The Nose Goes, 5.8R, 3 Pitches, is one of the more interesting multi pitch 5.8’s on the east side.  It features a cool dike traverse on its 2^nd pitch.  The runout is at 5.5 climbing or less.  Three routes start from this same location including the Dave Baker route, 5.7R, 2 Pitches and a single pitch by the name of Make the Stronghold Great Again, 5.8R.  Atop the 1^st pitch of the Dave Baker route, there is an option for an unpublished single pitch route known as the Great One, 5.8.  Again, like the Nose Goes, this pitch traverses left on a dike, but is a more challenging and airier of a traverse vs the Nose Goes dike traverse lower down.  It is well bolted on beautiful rock.  On the short east face up hill from these routes are two stellar sport routes, Mangas Coloradas, 5.11- and an unpublished (Trail of Tears) 5.9 which are two of the better sport routes on the east side at their respective grades. 

Mp.com discusses approaching Murray Dome from below Stronghold and Worm Domes by scrambling up their shared gully to the top and then up and right out of the wash by a slight cairned climber’s trail between Worm and Murray. The modern guide as of 2024 suggests approaching in front of Tesfnaeb Dome.  I have done both and they are essentially equal in distance and effort.  My preference is ascending below Tesfnaeb and up to the col at its west end by a slightly cairned climber’s trail. Descend into the wash between Stronghold and Tesfnaeb at the west end of Worm Dome.  Then ascend up the wash for a short distance looking for a slight cairned climber’s trail on the right side that leads to the south and east faces of Murray.  On descent, return to the west end of Worm Dome and descend the gully below Worm and Stronghold Domes and return south to the main trail as you would if returning from the Stronghold Dome, completing a loop around Tesfnaeb Dome.

Route Description

1^st Pitch -150’-5.7+R/ The local guide gives this route higher praise than the Nose Goes, but it is not even close to as interesting of a route.  Shares the same start in the corner proper and then moves up and right through a short bit of runout ground to reach the start of a tall crack on the right face.  You start climbing up and right before hitting the three bolts in the closed corner which is for the Nose Goes route.  Climb the easy crack that turns body wide for a bit and then finish on large features to a fixed belay with a dike to stand on. 

2^nd Pitch- 100’- 5.7/ Continue on low angled large features trending right.  Climb the short and steep wall on the left via plates.  There is good gear on this section.  Aim for the fixed anchor on the main wall up and left which is the top rap anchor on the dome (2024).  You can do a short exposed scramble to the summit and back if desired. 

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Make two short raps off of fixed stations down to the fixed rap on the east facing wall at a bush/yucca (2024).   Making three total raps with a 60m rope versus two will make it less likely you get your rope stuck on a chicken head on the pull over the low angled ground.  Alternatively, you can walk a dike out east atop the 1^st pitch to the fixed rap atop Mangas Coloradas and make just one more rap with a 60m rope instead of two down the true southeast face.  You will have to hike a short distance back to your packs.  Not sure this option saves you much time. 

Essential Gear

Single 60m rope, single from #.4 to #3, 120cm slings for slinging horns.  Route receives good sun in the morning and mid-day during winter.