Arrow

Overview

Chris Farmer follows me up the first pitch of Arrow.

A great climb surrounded by other great climbs, Arrow’s second pitch will have you thrilled from start to finish. Arrow is iconic in the Gunks for its finale on the exposed white slab high off the deck. It is also one of the longer, more continuous routes in the section of the wall, with two long pitches (by Gunks standards).

Getting There

From the West Trapps (upper) Parking Lot: Follow the carriage road for ~12-14 from the parking lot. You are looking for a bright white slab high on the wall to the left of a big, concave roof system (location of Fast Food, Feast of Fools, and Supper’s Ready). Cold Turkey follows the conspicuous arête just to the right of Arrow. Annie Oh! and Limelight are just to the left of Arrow’s start.

From the Wawarsing (lower) Parking Lot: Ascend the Stairmaster to the junction with the East Trapps Trail Connector, where it meets the carriage road. It is about ~7-9 minutes from the junction. 

Route Description

Pitch 1: Start on moderate, slabby terrain to the left of the conspicuous arête of Cold Turkey. Follow the face and vague crack system upward, trending slightly left to the GT Ledge. There is no real precise, continuous feature to follow up, but worry not: all of the surrounding climbs go at identical or similar grades, so getting off-route will not send you into a hyperventilation session. The top bit is a bit runout, but easy. You can belay of bolts on the ledge. (5.6, ~100 ft.)

Pitch 2: From the GT Ledge, walk left and climb up through a notch in the roof. Some moderately strenuous moves through the roof will put you on a broad face. Climb up and trend right on some fun face moves, angling for the bolts on the white face. 2 bolts will protect the runout towards the top. Clip the third and final bolt and pull the thin moves up and over the white face (crux) to the top (There is  debate over whether the right variation or left variation of the final moves is easier. Personally, I took the left variation, but it really is a trade-off: good hands with crap feet or good feet with crap hands). Above these moves, there will be bolts on a broad, comfortable ledge. (Stimulating 5.8, ~100 ft)

Descent: Rappel off the bolts at the top of arrow. 2 60m ropes will just make it down in a single rappel; 1 60m rope will require 2 rappels.

Essential Gear

• Helmet
  
• 60m rope (doubles if you so desire)
  
• BD nuts, sizes 4-13, or equivalent
  
• Cams from ~size 1 C3 to #3 C4, add small TCUs, if necessary
  
• 6-8 shoulder-length runners, 2 double-length runners
  
• Anchor cord, extra ‘biners, personal anchor system, etc.