Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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41.73600°N / 74.191°W |
Route Type:
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Trad Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Difficulty:
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G |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.10b (YDS) |
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Number of Pitches:
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1 |
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Overview
Nosedive and its companion route, Retribution, are two very accessible .10s in the Uberfall area of the Trapps. Nosedive is, according to some, 'easier' than Retribution, but the movement is more interesting and sustained than its neighbor: everything from thin face climbing to exciting liebacking to jamming are all found on this short but stellar route. If you are looking to push your Gunks climbing to higher grades, this route (and Retribution) is a good indicator to see if you are ready for longer .10s like The Feast of Fools, Wegetables, or Mother's Day Party.Getting There
From the West Trapps lot: Follow the carriage road for about 5-6 minutes until you enter the Uberfall area, passing a large overhang on your left (great shelter if it starts raining). Nosedive is the right crack and right-facing corner of the pair of cracks near the huge fallen block known as the Gerdie Block.From the Wawarsing lot: This requires that you head up the 'stairmaster' first. Hike up to the carriage road and turn LEFT, as if you were heading back for the West Trapps lot. Walk for ~7 minutes, past the 'Uber toilet' (composting toilet next to the Uberfall descent). Look for the twin cracks and the Gerdie Block.
Route Description
Start at the base of a shallow, left facing corner. Thin moves on thin gear (.1 BD X4)--a little balancy but only for a short stretch--will plant you firmly on a sidewalk of a ledge beneath an ancient fixed pin. Clip the pin and pull into a great lieback (.8-.9) with bomber gear placements, and pull above to a small rest. Climb the now right-facing corner with thin jam moves until the wall angle kicks back. Here, you have some options: if you are tall, you can reach right to a big ol' bucket, from which you can gather yourself, get a little acrobatic with your feet, and place gear beneath the crux. For short folks: you may have to climb the corner directly, which is a bit trickier, but not unreasonable.Pull through the slightly overhung corner into an off-fingers crack. Place bomber finger-sized gear and pull onto the final ledge. An easy hand traverse will put you in an alcove with a bolt anchor shared by Nosedive and Retribution.
Note: After finishing the final crack, place a redirect directly above it, as the anchor is off to the left of the route, otherwise your second will be in for an exciting pendulum if they fall at the end.
Note: After finishing the final crack, place a redirect directly above it, as the anchor is off to the left of the route, otherwise your second will be in for an exciting pendulum if they fall at the end.
Looking down from the anchor of Nosedive (off to the left) and Retribution (right). Make sure to place a redirect at the top of the crux or else your second will be in for an interesting pendulum!