Into the Mystic, 5.8+, 3 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Cholla and Polychrome Domes are located in the high reaches of the eastern Stronghold, below the Rockfellow group.  These two domes are separated by a gully and are easily climbed together regarding objectives.  Both domes feature south facing walls making them a good winter destination as long as the two approach trail options are not buried by heavy snow and melting ice (it happens).  Even in those conditions, the In the Shadows Trail option is not that difficult to navigate.

Polychrome features one of the largest set of multi pitch easy climbs in the Stronghold.  Likewise, Cholla Dome features a ton of easy moderate slab multi pitch or long single pitch climbs.   When you use the In the Shadows Trail, you come to Polychrome Dome first.  The set of highly recommended (by the local guide) easy face and slab climbs are the first climbs you come to at the west end, featuring Practically Perfect, 5.4 (three stars in the guide), a secure solo for the appropriate soloist.  Descending downhill from there and bushwhacking left to reach the gully separating the two domes, gives you access to two decent moderates at Polychrome’s east end:  Low Spark of High Healed Boys, 5.10-** and Into the Mystic, 5.8+***.  They share the same start. Into the Mystic is a varied route with two different cruxes that are stout for the grade, a slab pull/traverse on its 1st pitch and a short stem/OW move through a hole on its 2nd pitch.  Cholla Dome is to the east of the gully and offers a handful of fun 5.8 slab climbs right out of the gully.

You can approach from either of two trails that take off south from the main trail on the east side of the Stronghold that follows the drainage up to the Rockfellow Group and Cochise Dome.  Both trails veer off south way before you reach the creek above the waterfall rock drainage.  The preferred approach, if focused on these two domes is the Into the Shadows Trail.  It is the highest of the two.  You find it easily, as it starts at where you normally cross, on the main trail, a crevassed rock drainage under a significant tree.  Look over your left shoulder and hike east a few meters to locate the trail.  Follow it up and at a cairned split up the hill, stay left.  Turning right leads to Maybe and Likely Domes.  Continue up well cairned (2024) switchbacks.  You eventually arrive above the domes which are located below and to the east, but you cannot see them.  The trail leads you to a col where you are starring directly at Polychrome’s aesthetic SW face.  To reach the gully in between the domes, descend a climber’s trail down and pick a bushwhack line north to reach it.  Making the base of this gully allows access to the largest group of moderates on both domes.  To reach Mystic and High Heeled Boys, scramble west up onto a ledge at the southeastern base of Polychrome.  They share the same start and both start in the wide and traverse out left early on their 1st pitches.

Route Description

1st Pitch- 120’-5.8+/ There are two cruxes on this route that are ever bit + for the grade by Cochise standards.  Typically the local guide can be soft with grades, but in this case it is not.  Start on the southeastern arete of the formation. Scramble up the wide feature that starts the route You Got This.  The first bolt you see off left is for The Low Spark of High Heeled Boys.  Rather continue up the wide and clip a bolt on the 2nd traverse out left, taking on a lichen and chicken head covered face with a right facing corner out left.  The slab pullover out of the wide and above this first bolt onto this left face is difficult for the grade and the first crux of the route.  The guide mentions no bolts and its topo and description reference crossing lower onto the face and taking on the corner.  But two pro bolts as of 2024 take you higher on the traverse which is then easily ascended straight up on chickenheads.  That first slab move on the pull over traverse is more 5.9+ vs 5.8 and leads me to speculate this is probably a retrofitted route.  The rest of the climbing on this pitch is below grade.  You land a beautiful ledge below a massive roof with ample opportunity for a gear station in a horizontal. 

2nd/3rd Pitches- 160’-5.8+/ The 2nd crux of the route is an awkward stem crux off the belay ledge and into the wide crack above.  You get one hand jam and a crystal for a toe that allows a sequence to reach a bolt.  Once onto a small ledge above, easily squeeze through the slot to the sky above and next ledge up.  Continue up and right to an unprotected face to the eastern summit of this formation with two rap stations via rap hangers at the eastern edge.  The northern rap station makes it down to the gully between Polychrome Dome and Cholla Dome below.  The guide, as of 2024, is in error mentioning Another Brick in the Wall’s rap anchors being accessible at the top of pitch two.  Those rap anchors are out of view and way over at the far north end of the true east face. 

Climbing Sequence

Descent

From the summit, rap down the northeast face down into the gully.  A 70m might allow you to combine the first two raps, but you will not have visual to check before committing.  The first rap is short and goes to a large ledge.  Another rap takes you to yet another set of rap hangers.  A third full single rope rap gets you down into the gully within close proximity of traversing back southwest to your packs. 

Essential Gear

Single 60m rope.  Single from #.4 to #2.  Plenty of slings to combine pitches and avoid rope drag.  Route receives sun most all day in winter, which is better in the AM vs PM.