Stampede, 5.11-, 7 Pitches

Overview/Approach

This was the first established multi pitch sport route on Sheepshead and is the longest route to the summit.  Compared to most Sheepshead routes, Stampede is relatively sustained.  The first pitch offers up a slightly overhanging entry at the grade and then climbs sparse steep slab to an anchor at the right end of a ledge.  The second pitch has perhaps the most difficult crux of the route.  Easy traverse left leads to an awkward palm arete mantle, again, slightly overhanging.  It is a short pitch but rope drag would be such, it is best to climb it independently.  The third pitch makes another awkward (off balance) mantle to the arete yet again.  Then opens up to traversing the face to the rightward arete on steep but positive face climbing.  The fourth pitch is the easiest pitch by far, meandering up decent features and plated rock. The fifth pitch has a short slab crux section but most of the pitch is below grade. After moving the belay way leftward, the final two pitches offer up short slab cruxes at the grade.  They could be combined, but to stay roped up to the summit, they might as well be divided as laid out.  A bit contrived adding these last two pitches, but I appreciate the FAer's determination in developing a completely independent line to the summit.  When adding up the many traverses, this is by far the longest route on Sheepshead.

Approach as you would for Phony Pony on the south face of Sheepshead.  Take a fork off the main trail about 2/3rds up to the right and enter the gully proper.  Follow the gully up to the base of the south face.  Like Phony Pony, you have to climb a short lower wall to access a broad ramp.  Look for two bolts on this steep, slightly overhanging, section of the wall well before you reach Phony Pony or the top of the gully. 

Route Descripton

1^st Pitch- 100’-5.11-/ A boulder like start on edges leads to sparse waterworn slab above.  The crux on this first pitch depends on what you are good at, slab or face.  Fixed rap hangers.  Dozen bolts.

2^nd Pitch- 60’-5.11-/ Traverse out left on a ledge to a large hold on the arete.  Mantle this hold via making off balance moves (crux= “cryptic boulder problem” as per the local guide which describes it well).  Climb lessor grade through the bolts to the fixed rap hangers above.

3^rd Pitch- 115’-5.10+/ Local guide has it 25’ longer than it is.  A sustained start to the pitch.  Move up and over the arete to the left and face the crux via off-balanced awkward moves.  Move up to features and traverse right across the wall following the bolt line (there is a stray bolt above= 2022).  Traverse up and right to the rightward arete, fixed rap hangers.  Dozen bolts. 

4^th Pitch- 125’-5.10-/ Local guide has it 25’ longer than it is.  The easiest pitch of the route.  Traverse up and right through positive features.  Then straight up great rock below grade.  7 bolts.

5^th Pitch- 125’-5.10+/ Local guide has it 15’ longer than it is.  Mp.com has it rated at 5.10c.  The crux is short.  Climb up to the base of a dark slab with three bolts running through the heart of it.  You can climb the slab direct or stay left using a flake.  Easier climbing the rest of the way to a large ledge with a fixed belay.

Move the belay.  Walk the ledge to the north passing under the finishes for Joker’s Wild and Peacemaker. The last fixed belay on the ledge, 20’ climbers left of Peacemaker’s last pitch, is the two-pitch finish to Stampede. 

6^th Pitch- 115’- 5.11-/ The guide is way off on this pitch as of 2022.  It is not 165’ and there are not 16 bolts.  Climb up the varying edge and side pulls below grade through choppy rock.  The crux is on the steep slab above that leads to a fixed rap. 

7^th Pitch- 200’- 5.10+/ Only the first steep slab section through four bolts is at the grade.  Intricate slab and edge movement eventually pulls over onto lower angled and easy ground.  Pass a fixed anchor and do a body belay on the summit. 

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Follow the standard and well-marked descent trail down to the gully between Muttonhead and Sheepshead. 

Essential Gear

Dozen draws.  Haul approach shoes.  Route faces southwest.  First pitch stays shaded longer (a good thing due to the steep slab) due to the opposing wall.  Helmets advised. There are a few suspect holds on pitch 6.