Jive Chimney, 5.9R, 4 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Jive Chimney is a worthy objective that is similar to but a step down from the Labyrinth, 5.10R.  You have to have an adventurous spirit to climb these sorts of routes, a slowly dwindling character trait among so called “climbers”.   There will be no fixed gear on this route (2024).  It is like Labyrinth in that if you climb it in the winter when most are visiting Cochise, it will give you an alpine feel complete with melting and falling ice.  You burrow deep into its squeeze chimney to almost its terminus to find a large crack that tapers down.  The exit hole above is not direct, but rather causes you to squeeze out the left side.  This does not allow much light from above to shower this pitch and most will want a headlamp.  It can be intimidating to head for the hole not knowing if you will fit or not.  With a 28” waist, my hips with climbing harness was snug.  The local guide calls the final pitch “boulder hoping” but the author has no doubt not climbed the route as the 3rd pitch is for sure not the final one.  You do meander over large boulders with minimal 5^th class, but at 160' you come to near the summit and face a very cool 5.9 runout chimney to roof pull to hand crack required to exit the abyss onto the summit shoulder.  The true summit from there is just a short scramble north.

Take the regular Rockfellow approach and turn east below the north face as you would for Abracadaver.  Pass under Knead Me and Abracadaver and continue up the climbing trail eastward to the base of Bastion Towers which is essentially attached to Rockfellow.  Before you turn south for Forest Lawn, locate an obvious squeeze chimney on the NE arete of the outer tower.  The first several meters climbed to reach the start of the huge chimney are at the grade and involve manky rock that is often times wet in winter.  The chimney on the other hand can be surprisingly dry in the lower reaches during winter.  The upper chamber of the chimney can hold snow. 

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 120-5.9R/ Awkard start at the grade up a dirty and typically wet slab corner.  It offers pro where needed though.  You can place a bomber medium piece up and right in a small roof.  Mantel up into the long chimney. Start with some squeeze chimney technique over several chockstones.  Continue from chockstone to chockstone until near the end.  Belay with a #5 up in the crack above that leads into the dark abyss. 

2^nd Pitch- 60’-5.9/ Climb the varnished splitter (headlamp useful) straight up to a tiny passage on the left through boulders.  My 28” waste with a harness on was sticky.  Belay off of gear. 

3^rd Pitch- 160’-5^th/ Scramble south up boulders in the upper chamber with various 5^th class moves and exposure.  When you land the apex of the chimney, stretch (at 5'11") to place a small gear belay on the east wall. 

4^th pitch- 70’-5.9R/ Descend to the south in the chimney a meter or two and start chimneying over (R) to below a roof with a hand crack going up its left side.  Place pro in the roof and stem or chimney up to where you can get your feet in the crack.  At the top of the crack, easy climbing east leads to the summit ridge. Belay off of #4’s. 

Climbing Sequence

Descent

You can reach the summit in 30’ by scrambling up the summit block's west side.  There is a fixed belay on top to rope up for folks who are not comfortable walking the ridge northeast to the first rap (rap hangers).  Take a short first rap down the arete to the chains, maybe 60’. Take less than a 100’ down a bolted line to another fixed rap.  Take one final single 60m rope stretcher down to the top of the block where you start Forrest Lawn. Short walk back to the base.

Essential Gear

Single to #5.  60m rope.  Slings galore.  Headlamp for the start of pitch #2.  Knee pads if you are the sensitive type.  Routes gets zero sun.  The first portion of the route stays reasonably dry in winter, but the upper chamber can be wet and/or have snow.